Download E-books Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing PDF

By Dr. Patrick Moser

A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled lengthy wood forums into the sea, glossy surfers have endured this custom, which has lately been remodeled right into a worldwide undefined. Pacific Passages brings jointly 4 centuries of writing approximately browsing, the main finished number of Polynesian and Western views at the historical past and tradition of a recreation at the moment loved by way of hundreds of thousands of individuals world wide. The tales commence with Hawaiian legends and chants and are through the journals of explorers; the go back and forth narratives of missionaries and luminaries similar to Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the modern observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis.

Readers stick with the old transformation of surfing’s photograph during the centuries: from Polynesian myths of affection to Western bills of horror and exoticism within the eighteenth and 19th centuries, to trendy representations of browsing as a character-building job in pre-World-War II California and the integral expression of disaffected adolescence. They discover the sport’s most up-to-date developments by way of writers and cultural critics, whose insights into expertise, festival, gender, background, and globalism exhibit how browsing affects a few of today’s such a lot urgent social concerns.

Aided by means of informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages offer perception into the values and beliefs of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each one has altered and been altered via surfing―and how the game itself has proven an awesome skill through the centuries to outlive, adapt, and prosper.

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